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Dual CAM & Crank Trigger KIT 2JZ-GE non vvti only
This is much more than just a Cam and Crank trigger kit. When combined with my Coil on Plug Kit it actually transforms your 2JZ-GE engine into a 2JZGTE by replicating the exact positions of the 2JZGTE Dual Cam Sensors and Crank Sensor. This means you open the door to use both the stock GTE ECU and all stand-alone /aftermarket Plug n Play ECU's that have been developed for the GTE over the last 25 years.
 
This Kit comes with a FULL Plug n Play wiring harness that adapts to your stock GE harness, essentially making your GE harness a GTE wiring harness, eliminating the need to purchase or have made a GTE wiring harness. This will save you THOUSANDS when converting your naturally aspirated engine into a turbo-charged engine.
 
This Kit retains your stock GE oil pump by using a bracket to bolt to it. This is a HUGE ADVANTAGE as you can install this kit WITHOUT REMOVING THE ENGINE FROM THE CAR! Other kits use a GTE/VVTI oil pump that can't be installed unless you remove the top sump. In order to remove the top sump you need to remove the engine from the car.
YOUR GE OIL PUMP IS MORE THAN CAPABLE OF RUNNING HUGE HORSEPOWER TURBO APPLICATIONS. Many people report that the GTE pump fitted to a GE engine can blow out the front oil seal due to too much pressure. This is due to the lack of oil squirters and twin turbo feed canals blocked of in the GE.
 

Dual CAM & Crank Trigger KIT 2JZ-GE non vvti only

SKU: 4
$880.00Price
    1. 2 x adjustable CAM GEARS (inlet and exhaust)
    2. 1 x bracket to tensioner pulley.
    3. 1 x Dual Cam sensor bracket.
    4. 1 x Crank sensor bracket.
    5. 1 x Belt stay bracket.
    6. 1 x Crank trigger Pulley (option, 12 tooth or 36-2 tooth).
    7. 2 x CAM Sensors.
    8. 1 x CRANK Sensor.
    9. 1 x FULL plug n play wiring harness.
    10. TOOLS: 18mm holesaw, Carbide bur.
    11. Shims for Cam sensor gapping.
    12. Distributor hole block Welch Plug.

  • CAM GEARS

    1. Remove Stock Cam gears. An impact gun is easiest but if you don't have one please remove valve covers to access the hex casting in the center of each camshaft. 
    2. Fit new adjustable gears. The gears are labelled 'IN'(inlet), and 'EX' (exhaust). Place them correctly for each Cam. You don't need to mess about with setting the gears, they are already set  to the stock position. Tighten the two Cam bolts and re-fit the valve covers.

    TENSIONER BRACKET

    1. Remove 3 stock bolts from the sepentine belt tensioner.
    2. Place the bracket on top of the tensioner pulley and tighten with the 3 new bolts provided.
    3. Dummy fit the CAM SENSOR BRACKET and using feeler gauges, SET THE GAP BETWEEN EACH SENSOR AND EACH PROTRUDING BOLT ON THE CAM GEARS. THE GAP CAN BE ANYTHING INBETWEEN 0.3 - 0.8mm. Take the sensor bracket back off after setting the gap. 
    4. Use the front cover template to drill 4 holes into the front plastic cover.
    5. losely fit the timing belt over the cam gears but leave it off the crank pulley. Line the Cam gears up with the humps on the backing plate.
    6. fit the front cover over the top of the bracket and belt. Leave the top and bottom covers off.
    7. Re-fit the Cam Sensor Bracket.

    CRANK SENSOR INSTALL

    1. Assumeing you have already taken off the Harmonic balancer and stock crank timing pulley, its time to do a little cutting on the stock GE oil pump. You CAN do this with the engine in the car as long as you have removed the fan and radiator shroud.
    2. dummy fit the CRANK SENSOR BRACKET, and use the 18mm hole-saw included and insert into the sensor hole in the bracket. Use a VERY SLOW SPEED to cut a hole through the oil pump housing. DON'T GO TOO DEEP BUT ALSO NOT TOO SHALLOW. Dummy fit the Sensor into the hole to see if its hitting the housing at the tip. About 0.5mm gap from the tip of the sensor to the housing is perfect.
    3. Take the sensor and bracket back off to clean out all debris for now.
    4. Use Carbide burs provided to remove the stock belt stay lip.(located bottom right of the crankshaft). This lip stops the new trigger wheel from fitting onto the crank shaft. Please use a SLOW SPEED and be patient. Slowly grind the lip completely back untill it is nearly flush with the housing. This take about five minutes. (alot faster than removing the entire engine to change to a GTE pump). 
    5. BEFORE CUTTING THE LIP PLEASE WRAP MASKING TAPE AROUND THE EXPOSED CRANK SHAFT. This will protect it from any damage. Use multiple layers for best protection.
    6. Use carbide burs to remove a small gap of housing to fit new timing belt stay. Dummy fit the belt stay and mark with a black pen where the belt stay will slot in. Romve material until the belt stay sits square. Check that the belt stay sits nearly to the sme height as the stock lip you ground down by lining it up by eye. It should fit perfectly but just make sure its not sitting too high as it make contact the belt.
    7. Remove masking tape from crank shaft and clean all bebris from around the pump. 
    8. Now is the time to replace the front seal if you are doing that. This isn't included and please use the TSRM for instructions to replace the seal.
    9. Place the new Crank timing pulley onto the crank shaft.
    10. Re-fit the belt stay bracket.
    11. install the Crank Sensor Bracket gently push it toward the crank as you tighten the bolts, note that the bottom bolt is longer than the top.
    12. Install the crank sensor. The gap is pre-set here so no need for feeler gauges but if you want to be re-assured, you can use them to check the gap which should be approx 0.5-0.7mm between tooth and sensor.
    13. Fit timing belt using Toyota specs TSRM
    14. Fit stock timing belt wheel over the belt and install bottom plastic cover
    15. Fit harmonic balancer.

    WIRING HARNESS

    1. Assuming you have already removed the distributor and burned it in a fire, please insert the WELCH PLUG provided into the hole in the head. Use a 20mm socket to slip inside it and tap into the head with a pastic hammer. A normal hammer will also work but you may dent you socket.
    2. Plug in the wiring harness provided. You will notice the connectors are labelled 'CR' (crank sensor), 'IN' (inlet cam sensor) and 'EX' (exhaust cam sensor). Plug these in and run the harness over the top of the front of the engine from exhaust side to inlet side. You can either run the harness under the inlet plenum with the rest of the stock harness or with the coil on plug harness through the centre valley.
    3. Plug in the 4 pin connector to the original distributor connector. BE VERY GENTLE AND ACURATE WITH THIS CONNECTOR BEING CARFUL TO USE THE "TOP" MARKING MATCHED UP WITH THE TOP OF THE DIZZY CONNECTOR. If you put the connector on upside-down it will bend the male pins so please be carful. Once the connector is all the way in please run the Cable tie provided to wrap around both connectors and pull them tight together.
    4. Run the remaining harness through the rubber boot on the firwall and into the passenger foot well.
    5. Use the instructions ECU diagram included to locate pins 5 & 6 on the 'wires side' of the ECU connector. Push the to wires (clearly labelled) into their correct pins. 

    START THE CAR.

    1. Assuming you have either a Stock GTE ECU or a plug n play Stand-alone ECU, you can now start the car. This is a good Idea before putting the fan and shroud back in, just incase you have missed something. Pleaase note that if you are using the 36-2 wheel then you will need to change the trigger set-up using a lap top and ECU software.
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